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Since 2018 · Relaunched 2021

The archive

A public selection since 2018. Guides and design notes are labeled. Stays are not invented.

23 stories

  1. The Stay · Essay · 29 September 2026Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo: A Grand Stay in the Heart of Monte-CarloMy stay: 22-27 September 2026. A sea-view suite on Casino Square, during yacht-show week, and a hotel that became part of the week rather than a place to sleep it off.
  2. The Moment · Essay · 28 September 2026The Yacht Show Is Also a Study in Design and ImaginationMonaco Yacht Show, Port Hercule, 23-26 September 2026. The boats are on display. The story is the life they are arguing for.
  3. The Stay · Essay · 21 February 2026What a hotel is forMarble is not hospitality. A reading of the sequence that actually makes a stay memorable: arrival, water, morning, and the reason you came.
  4. The Table · Guide · 19 February 2026After the parade, the tableCarnival week rewrites Rio’s restaurants. Where the city’s serious tables stand, and why the honest meal may be a counter, not a tasting menu.
  5. The Moment · Essay · 16 February 2026The night Rio rewrites the yearSamba schools spend a year building a single night. Why that night still sets a calendar - and what a visitor misses by arriving only for the feathers.
  6. Field Notes · Field note · 28 January 2026How to arriveWhat this desk will claim, what it will label, and how a city should be entered if you intend to understand it rather than collect it.
  7. The Moment · Essay · 30 December 2025The white and the waterOn the offerings that meet the tide before the year turns - and why a travel journal should know the difference between a ritual and a picture.
  8. The Journey · Guide · 4 March 2025Five days on one coastA researched line from Copacabana to Paraty - beaches that are not interchangeable, one hill day, and a colonial coast that floods on purpose.
  9. The Journey · Field note · 5 December 2024The market in Marrakech does not repeatJemaa el-Fnaa at the end of the day, then the souk: olives, nuts, and more to buy than you can carry. From my 2024 visit.
  10. The Stay · Essay · 4 December 2024Royal Mansour Marrakech: The Stay That Still Sets the BarMy stay: 2024. A riad unlike anywhere I had stayed, a spa I still think about, and a welcome that felt personal from the airport to the last morning.
  11. The Stay · Design note · 14 August 2024Reading the Copacabana PalaceOpened in 1923, the Belmond Copacabana Palace is less a hotel on the beach than the beach’s formal room. A design note from the building’s public life.
  12. The Stay · Design note · 16 May 2023Fasano and the art of arrivalPhilippe Starck’s Fasano Rio, opened in 2007, treats arrival as a designed act. Notes on a hotel that taught Ipanema to look up.
  13. The Moment · Essay · 20 February 2023Carnival, properlyThe difference between going to Carnival and seeing it. On blocos, the Sambadrome, and the kind of preparation that looks like respect.
  14. The Stay · Guide · 3 November 2022Above Santa TeresaA researched guide to staying above the beach - the hills, the tram that sometimes runs, and the houses that face the city instead of the sand.
  15. The Journey · Essay · 17 September 2022Cities after darkNight is when a city exaggerates. How to be out late as a guest rather than a collector, from Carnival avenues to ordinary midnights.
  16. Field Notes · Field note · 9 September 2021The first table backDining rooms reopened unevenly. Notes on the autumn of 2021, and on not pretending a meal was a return to normal.
  17. Field Notes · Field note · 15 June 2020Staying stillThe issue we published when the airplanes stopped. On empty hotels, remembered tables, and the decision not to invent trips.
  18. The Table · Essay · 22 July 2019The boteco is the pointA travel journal that only covers tasting menus is lying about how a city eats. On the counter, the small glass, and the meal Rio actually means.
  19. The Moment · Essay · 2 January 2019Where the year actually turnsRéveillon on Copacabana, from the night I spent there in 2018. White clothes, the sea, and the fireworks. What still holds if you go.
  20. The Table · Guide · 14 December 2018A winter tableParis in December, researched: the bistro hour, the rooms that require a campaign to book, and a city that is better at dinner when it is cold.
  21. The Moment · Guide · 27 May 2018From the hillA grand prix weekend as a temporary city. A researched cultural guide to watching from above, rather than pretending the harbor is manageable.
  22. The Stay · Design note · 3 April 2018The ryokan morningWhat a ryokan is sequencing: shoes, bath, the meal, the futon, the morning. A design note on a kind of hotel that is also a set of manners.
  23. Field Notes · Field note · 2 February 2018The invitationThe editor’s letter from the first issue. Why the journal is called Invite Only, and what it refuses to become.